Drive into Narada Gana Sabha on any day of the Margazhi Festival, and the first question the watchman will ask is, “Kutcheri-aa, canteen-aa?” (Are you here for the concert or the canteen?) In January and December, this bastion of the annual dance-and-music extravaganza in Chennai that goes by the terms “Margazhi Festival”, “Music Season” or just “Season”, draws lovers of Carnatic music, Bharatanatyam, and food. Despondent rasikas sulk at t